My three girlfriends and I stayed overnight in Gjógv, Eysturoy Island, during our weeklong road trip around the Faroe Islands. This village, nestled between two mountains and built around a creek flowing through the eponymous gorge, was my favorite spot on our glorious trip. A settlement has existed here since the late 1500s.
We arrived in Gjógv in the evening after our precarious drive into town through Gjáarskarð. The route we took is closed in the winter and consists of many high roads through the mountains with sudden drops on both sides, but it provides a stunning view of this village on the ocean. On the way out, we drove through Funning instead, which is much less scary.
Where to Stay in Gjógv
We stayed in the Gjaargardur Guesthouse, the only hotel in town. We stayed in the Annex, providing a view of the village. The guesthouse also has an extensive, tasty breakfast buffet included, and you can book reservations for dinner here.
Upon first entering my room, I had a magical experience. I went out on the patio in front of my room as the sun was setting over the misty mountains. I heard what appeared to be a large party with happy yelling in this empty town. Where was the party occurring? It took me a few minutes to deduce that the sounds weren’t people but rather sheep baying at each other to find each other in the mist. What an excellent way to start my time in this place!
What to See in Gjógv
The Gorge
The town’s name means “gorge,” and this is the town’s star.
Gjógv Kirkja
After my breakfast buffet, I explored the town on foot the following day. I first headed towards the church, Gjógv Kirkja, built in 1929. Like this one, most Scandinavian churches are Lutheran. Most are not open to tours, but you can attend services when they happen. I was fortunate enough to be here on a Sunday, so I sat in on the service. Before this church was built, people had to walk to Funnigar to attend services.
Pastors travel from church to church, so the service was run by a lay leader who read from a book in Faroese.
After the service, I walked through the beautiful waterfront cemetery. Many of the gravestones were topped with a bird, maybe a dove, indicating a departure from the body or peace.
Sea Memorial
Across the street from the church are statues of a mother and two children waiting for a father who will never return and monuments to souls lost to the sea.
Explore the Tide Pools and Rocky Beach
After church, I visited the town’s rocky coastline, where I saw seabirds eating and swimming on the rocks and enjoyed the views of Kalsoy Island.
Get a Coffee and Waffles
Every little town in the Faroes has a coffee shop. This coffee shop is a proper building with a raised patio that offers beautiful views. Gjáarkaffi is located just up the hill from the town’s boat ramp. It offers food, coffee, and, of course, waffles with rhubarb jelly. It accepts credit cards.
Visit the Boat Ramp
The town has long used the natural harbor created by the gorge, building a wooden ramp and pulleys to pull boats from the water.
Stairs lead into the harbor, where you can view the many seabirds nesting in the opposing rock walls and the flowers growing in the crevasses.
Take a Hike
Puffin Hike
Behind the coffee shop is a dirt trail leading up to a gate. You must pay to hike onto the mountain’s ridge, overlooking the village. Many seabird nests are right over the ridge and on the right as you climb.
I didn’t hike the whole trail, but I walked up the steep stairs and did the portion that goes to the mountain’s tip on the gorge’s northern side.
If you want to do the whole 3.4-km hike, which is considered challenging, you can read more about it on All Trails.
Funningur Hike
Read about this 4 km moderate hike, which is how villagers went to church before the kirk was born in this village. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to take this hike through the mountain south of Gjógv.
Buffet Dinner at The Guesthouse
You need a reservation at the only restaurant in town, but the food is excellent.
Play in the Park
The park is one of the most delightful parts of this village. The playground consists of boats on the waters of the creek running through town. All day, the park is full of happy kids and dogs. We visited in the evening and enjoyed the kids in our adult selves by playing on the boat. An adorable dog also insisted on joining in on our play.
Late into the night, the sun went down on our relaxing and energizing day in this lovely Faroese town, and we laid our heads down very satisfied.
What is your favorite Faroese village?
