My son Joseph and I have a tradition of taking off together when school schedules allow, and this March we picked a big one: a seven-night Southern Caribbean and Aruban Nights cruise on Virgin Voyages’ Valiant Lady, sailing out of San Juan. Five ports, two sea days, and just the two of us. Here’s how it went.
The Ship: Valiant Lady and What We Thought of Virgin Voyages
This was our first time sailing Virgin Voyages, and the Valiant Lady is a serious ship — 110,000 gross tons, 17 decks, just over 1,400 cabins. It’s an adults-only line (no kids’ clubs, which suited us fine with a teenager), and the design leans more toward boutique hotel than traditional cruise ship. Lots of brass accents, marble, and a general “trying not to look like a cruise ship” vibe that mostly works.
We loved the difference of this cruise line. It doesn’t have grand spaces, but rather has lots of little bars and restaurants. Even though our cruising was sold out, I almost never felt that there were a lot of people around, and it was easy to find a place to hang out, play cards, and get food or drinks. The food was generally better than I have had on any other cruise line.
My favorite places were The Dock, a Mezze bar at the back of the ship with excellent views, perfect for sail-away; the handmade hammock on my balcony; breakfast at Razzle Dazzle; and dinner at The Wake.
The entertainment is more risqué than most lines—think drag shows and acrobatics—so not ideal for everyone, but I liked it.
The things I like less about this line are not getting to know the dining staff.
We didn’t spring for the suite life this trip, but I did take a long look at what the higher categories offer, mostly out of curiosity. The top suites come with a private rooftop deck access, a dedicated agent, and a bottomless in-room bar, which is a fun thing to know exists even if it wasn’t in our budget this time. Good to keep in your back pocket for a future splurge trip.
Having completed all of Virgin Voyages’ travel agent training and sailed with them, I can offer you a discounted deposit and lots of insider information. Contact me to start booking your cruise today.
Getting There: San Juan First
We flew into San Juan a full day before boarding, which I’d recommend to anyone sailing out of there. We have spent a lot of time in Puerto Rico, since it is so convenient to visit, being so close to the East Coast. Check out my Puerto Rico content for ideas on how to spend your time.
We checked into the Courtyard Isla Verde Beach Resort, right on the beach in Isla Verde, and used our one full day in San Juan to settle in before embarkation the next evening. Boarding wasn’t until 5:15 PM, so there was no rush in the morning, which was a nice way to start a trip after a travel day.
If you’ve never been to Old San Juan, it’s worth building in time for. The colonial streets and fortifications are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they have a completely different feel from the modern city radiating out around them. We didn’t have a full day to explore this time since we’d been before, but if this is your first stop, give yourself at least a half day in the old town.
Sea Day One: Spa and Pickleball
On our first full sea day, I booked myself a spa morning while Joseph did his own thing, and then we met up for pickleball in the early afternoon. If you haven’t tried pickleball on a moving ship, it adds an extra challenge you don’t get on land. There is only one court, so it is a long wait to play. We also enjoyed relaxing and playing cards and table shuffleboard in The Social Club.
Aruba: Off-Roading to the Beach
Oranjestad was our first port stop, and we went big on this one: a full-day UTV/ATV off-road adventure with RockaBeach Tours. This took us along Aruba’s northern “volcanic” coast, which looks completely different from the white-sand beaches most people picture when they think of Aruba. This was my son’s favorite day.
We saw Blackstone Beach (black sand, not white — a nice surprise) and the Three Sister Bridges right next to it, drove past Andicuri Beach, stopped at a couple of the island’s natural limestone bridges, and toured the Bushiribana Goldmill Ruins. We had time to climb the lighthouse of the south side of the island. Bring some cash if you want to climb it too. The tour wrapped up at Arashi Beach on the southwest side, which is the calm, blue, prestige-beach version of Aruba you’d expect — a good contrast after a morning of rougher terrain.
A few practical notes if you book this one: you’ll need a driver’s license to operate a vehicle, closed-toe shoes are required (no flip-flops), and pack your swimsuit since you’ll want to get in the water at Arashi.Â
After a busy morning, we headed to Eagle Beach and had a yummy lunch at Marea. The food on Aruba is famously good. Eagle Beach is long with white sand and a boardwalk, but it was so windy I wished we had stayed at Arashi.
Curaçao: My Favorite Day
Willemstad is one of those port cities where the history is genuinely interesting even if you’re not normally a history person — Dutch colonial architecture, a city split in two by Santa Anna Bay, and a pontoon bridge locals call “The Swinging Old Lady” that opens to let passing ships through. We didn’t have time to do it justice this visit since we’d planned an active day elsewhere on the island, but it’s on my list to come back and actually wander Punda and Otrobanda properly.
We started our day with the Curaçao Liquor Distillery. You can tour the distillery that makes the blue liquor known around the world with a reservation. Without the reservation, you can still shop and get a drink.
We then stopped by the Landhuis Bloemhof Estate, which has a modern garden and a large, intriguing art installation, The Cathedral of Thorns, in the middle.
We then had our driver take us to Lionsdive Beach, where we had the option to snorkel (gear rentals are right there) and get massages. We had lunch with our feet in the sand, which was a nice change of pace from the off-roading the day before.
I loved this resort so much that if I come to Curacao again, I will plan to stay there. Book a room at Lionsdive.
A Sea Day to Catch Your Breath
Between Curaçao and our next port, we had a full sea day to just exist on the ship, which, after Aruba and Curaçao, we needed. This itinerary front-loads a lot of activity into the first stretch, so don’t feel like you have to book something every single port day. We didn’t on this one, and it was the right call.
Martinique: Expensive, but Pretty
Fort-de-France is full French Caribbean — more soupçon of West Indian spice than you’d expect from the food, towering mountains, rainforest, and duty-free shopping if that’s your thing.
The taxis are very expensive, and everything is far away. We took a cab to a nice snorkeling spot, but it cost $350, and if I had it to do again, I would have chosen to do a tour through Virgin.
St. Kitts: A Thrilling, but Strenuous Day
St. Kitts is mountainous and still genuinely lush — sugarcane fields running down to the shore, a dormant volcano at Mt. Liamuiga, and Brimstone Hill, once known as the “Gibraltar of the West Indies.” One thing locals are particular about here: always ask before photographing someone, and cover up beach attire when you’re off the beach.
After our day at sea, we were feeling ready for anything, so we decided to climb the famous mountain. It was a gorgeous, but hot hike, and I couldn’t quite make it to the summit in the time allotted- but Joseph did. 
Heading Home Through San Juan
We sailed back into San Juan early on our last morning and spent our final night at CasaBlanca, a small 32-room hotel right on Calle Fortaleza in the heart of Old San Juan — a nice bookend to where we started. Our flight home to Rhode Island wasn’t until the evening, so we had most of a final day to wander before the trip officially ended.
Would I Recommend This Itinerary?
For a mother-son trip where you want a real mix of adrenaline (Aruba and St. Kitts), low-key adventure (Curaçao), pure relaxation (the sea days), and one-on-one time that doesn’t feel forced, this itinerary delivers.Â
Have you sailed Virgin Voyages, or done this Southern Caribbean route? I’d love to hear what you’d add to the itinerary.
*If you’re feeling overwhelmed planning a cruise of your own, my travel agency, Adventurous You Travel Services, would be happy to help. Reach out, and we’ll set up a call.*